Wednesday 20 April 2016

Ventilation or Insulation

I don't think it is possible to be a bee keeper for more than a month without hearing a lecture from another bee keeper about the importance of insulation OR ventilation, depending on the time of year it could quite possibly be the same bee keeper.

Insulation I get. I can console myself with the concept that the better the insulation the less work bees have to do in order to maintain an optimal temperature in their hive. Remember, bees are not warm-blooded animals, if they do not actively generate heat, there is no heat. Yet they maintain a temperature very similar to that of a warm-blooded animal (within the brood nest).

The ventilation bit I have a little more trouble with. The hollow cavities of trees are not well known for being "airy". Also from my own experience in using bait hives the bees will not choose a bait hive that has multiple or large entrances. I am willing to accept that perhaps as the intelligent humans who can use calculators and spreadsheets we may have done the work to prove that despite what the bees think ventilation is better for them. Perhaps someone has worked it out, ventilation is what bees need. Humans know best! After all we do have digital watches.

Much of what I will now talk about is to a greater or lesser extent from Ed Clark's book <a href="http://www.biobees.com/library/general_beekeeping/beekeeping_books_articles/ConstructiveBeekeeping_EdClarke.pdf">Constructive Beekeeping </a>(available for free online from Cornell Uni Press). I am afraid this may turn into another lecture <strong>*sigh* </strong>sorry folks.

“Commercial beekeeping has for its object the production of the maximum quantity of honey at a minimum cost. Swarming adds greatly to the costs of producing honey. Most methods of swarm-prevention have in them the element of destructiveness. Ventilating, removing the queen, shaking the bees, removing the brood, exchanging brood-bodies, loosening the cover, all destroying something that the bees have done, or adding to the work to be done in the hive.” “Instead of going into the hive and telling the bees (by manipulations) ‘don’t do this’; say to them ‘keep all your brood, keep your queen, keep the cold damp air out of the hive and I will make your hive so perfect a condenser of water vapour that the work of evaporating water from nectar will be done quickly’. We will bring team-work into play, and each get the benefit of every advantage gained.” – This is a word for word transcription from the introduction on <a href="http://www.biobees.com/library/general_beekeeping/beekeeping_books_articles/ConstructiveBeekeeping_EdClarke.pdf">“Constructive Beekeeping” by Ed Clark</a> originally published in 1918 and available online in full for free. The work wasn’t paid an awful lot of attention to when it was published. I enjoy the book because it doesn’t just communicate passed on lessons. It takes first principles of physics and applies them in a practical way. It is also filled with wonderful jewels displaying that his knowledge is as hard won as our own such as “Familiarity with bees makes a person wonder where the mule got his reputation for stubbornness.”

We know full well that our bees do not like ventilation. They tell us so with the way that coat the inside of their hives with propolis and close up even the smallest of holes. Propolis can be troublesome for beekeepers using framed hives but isn’t really an issue for kTBHs but it forms an important part of the bees control of the hive atmosphere. Ed Clarke uses the “urge” of swarming as an indicator of the bees contentedness with the hive environment provided, and use “room” as the primary cause of this “urge”. When we think of room in a hive we think of physical space, adding another super, adding in top bars. Space in its own right though is of little use to the bee. The bee is interested in usable comb. I say <em>usable</em> comb because at the time when bees have a tendency to swarm their brood is abundant, there is pollen and honey stored above it as food, and then a nectar flow starts. At this point foundation is no good to the bees, and neither is an empty bar. Nectar is 80% water and before it can't be stored as honey it needs to be ripened. This means four times as many empty cells are required in which to keep the nectar before it is made into honey. Sticking with the idea of “room” being the primary cause of the “urge” ventilation does (in some cases) fit the bill because it generates room. The room is generated though at the expense of warmth and hive atmosphere which not only serves to increase the chance of brood chilling but reduce the opportunity for evaporation. Aha yes… we haven’t spoken about evaporation yet have we! The obvious by-product of turning nectar (~80% water) in to honey (&lt;20% water) is all that extra water. If we use the example of just one pound of water being expelled over night (in order to ripen the honey) we know at a standard hive temperature this would saturate the air or more the 600 hive bodies.

So then "If"…..
a)            The air entering the hive was absolutely dry at 0% humidity.
b)            The air leaving the hive is 100% saturated.
c)            The bees were able to replace the entire hive volume in one minute.
Then this amount of water would take around 10hrs to pass out of the hive.

But when is the air ever absolutely dry. As you can see from the chart below in London the humidity doesn’t drop below 60% on average (in Yorkshire today it is ~90%).

<a href="https://augustcottageapiary.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/humidity.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-large wp-image-497" src="https://augustcottageapiary.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/humidity.jpg?w=640" alt="humidity" width="640" height="212" /></a>

Equally the air leaving the hive is not at 100%, and of course the bees could not hope to exchange a full hive body worth of air through a small opening in the front in one minute. Despite this beekeeper holds on to the idea that fanning is how bees are able to evaporate nectar into honey. In Yorkshire it is 90% humidity and about 8<sup>o</sup>C (~45 F for US readers). This is almost exactly the environment Ed Clarke worked with in Minnesota and he did “The Math”… “To remove from a hive one grain of water vapour by fanning on May 13 (93%, 8<sup>o</sup>C/45.5 F ), the volume of air that would have to be moved would be five to six times the air capacity of the hive. To remove one pound of water would require the removal of a volume of air equal to the capacity of from 30,000 to 40,000 hive-bodies.” On evening where there is close to 100% humidity no water vapour could be removed by air exchange. It is certainly beginning to sound unlikely.

When start to talk about the hive as a condenser then some of this begins to make sense. To understand how the hive works as a condenser an understanding of the dew point is useful. Air that is saturated with water is said to be at its dew point. As the temperature decreases the relative humidity increases when this reaches 100% the dew point is met. Essentially put the warmer the air is the more water it can hold. If you then cool that air the absolute amount of water remains the same but the relative humidity increases. Once the relative humidity reaches 100% and the dew point is met water will readily condense from the air. When bees are allowed to control their own affairs they will arrange the hives as a condenser where the temperature difference between the outside temperature and the inside temperature will cause water to condense on the inside hive walls. The reason we don't see this is bees being animals need a readily available supply of water and this is a excellent source within the hive. This idea is supported by the records of hive weights morning and evening during a nectar flow. If honey produced through moving the water out of the hive the hive weight would change dramatically, but the reality is there is very little variation.

It is important to remember that condensation WILL happen in your hives and it MUST happen on the coldest surface. During winter this surface will often be the surface least insulated. As such if you insulate your hives walls more than your hive roof you risk dripping water into the cluster. This will have a catastrophic effect on the bees.

By propolising the inner surfaces of the hive the bees are further increasing its efficiency as a condenser. Varnished surfaces (or smooth surfaces) readily allow the condensing of liquids. By making the surface a better "receiver" of condensation the bees therefore lower the hive humidity and allow more honey to be evaporated. On condensing the water is forced to release its latent heat back into the hive thus supporting the whole process further. The convection will circulate the released heat into the centre of the hive body and help heat the brood and evaporate the honey.

I fear if I write any more I will lose even the hard-core followers who have only got this far by pinching their thighs in order to stay awake. I am really interested though of what other people think about this one so please comment and discuss.

Friday 8 April 2016

A Short Video

Here is a very short video of me actually doing something :)
This is a warré hive that went queenless following a swarm towards the end of last year. The comb was diagonal across the bars so I decided to straighten them up to allow for easier handling (should I need to) if a swarms moves in. Can't remember if I say so but I hung the outer combs in the middle of the lower (second) box. This provides a ladder to ensure (mmm maybe) the bees move down rather than swarm out once they have filled the top box.


Tuesday 5 April 2016

Sprung has Springed

This last week has treated us to a little sunshine and all of a sudden the world is coming back to life.  I was extremely lucky to have booked the time off of work and feel very smug as a result. The week was spent with family, on the beach, visiting seal colonies nearby, fossil hunting, and celebrating my birthday.
image
image
My daughter also finally got to do her "zookeeper for a day" Christmas present and even got to hand feed owlets, wallabies, and meerkats.
image
As I have said all three of my colonies made it though winter and on brief inspection have a small amount of brood. The top bar hive is by far the strongest and even has some winter stores left over at the tops of a few combs.
Since I felt my sap rising too I jumped on the impulse and got my bait hives out ready. This is in spite of fact that I never see a swarm before June :s To be fair this is mostly because I just concentrate of my village area. This is to try and catch any of my swarms along with any local survivor stock. Here is recent post on how. I have also baited up all my empty hives in the apiary as.... well... why not! I want to let my colonies swarm with some degree of regularity as I believe it to be an important process both for the bees and in varroa control. I will attempt to minimize swarming through nest expansion but if I miss the boat and the urge takes them who am I to know better. I may make splits using the swarmed colony if it is large enough but otherwise I will not intervene unless there is queenlessness.  I am lucky that I live sufficiently rural that I can get away with this malarkey, but I put bait hives at different distances in my village to minimize the bees upsetting anyone. It does annoy me a little that a hive swarming is treated as such a terrible thing in beekeeping now when I instinctively feel as though it should be celebrated.
20160316_170348
Warré baited up for swarms. Just two of the four boxes.
As well as bait hives of my own I have lent our local vicar two warré bait hives. Joe is very excited to be giving natural beekeeping a try and currently supports nine churches. That is nine churchyards that may well be hearing the buzzing of bees in the not too distant future.
I will publish a short video in the not too distant future of how I set one up.

In other news over winter I have contributed to the YBKA newsletter (March edition). This is the monthly publication of
the Yorkshire Beekeeping Association and had a new editor who wanted to capture some different beekeeping practices.
I will also be hosting my association in my apiary for a Top bar hive training session on 21st May, so fingers crossed I have something to show them.



Sunday 13 March 2016

Long time no bee

Well it has once again been a long winter's break for me and beekeeping. I have had to find other pass times like snowflake cutting, visiting relatives and getting under my wife's feet. I didn't really blog much towards the end of last year either to be honest. I found last year an extremely challenging beekeeper year. The summer was terrible for the bees here and for the first time I have seen the queens stop laying. I was checking hives and finding no eggs and thinking they had gone queenless. A few combs further on and there her majesty would be. It is the sort of year that tests your principles as a natural beekeeper. I found myself relenting and giving a little top up feed towards the end of the year. Nonetheless I was expecting the worst coming out of winter. This weekend has been the first signs of spring in North Yorkshire with temperature actually reaching double figures for C. The sun seemed a little dazed and confused by the whole thing but managed to burn through the haze and put on a good showing.
I popped over to the hives yesterday lunchtime  and not a bee could be seen flying. I had been to the association apiary (nearer the coast) earlier in the day and all hives were flying strong. I lifted the top covers of my quiet hives and had a look at the small fondant blocks I had put on in February (I lost several colonies to starvation in Feb last year). None of the fondant had been touched and there were no bees in there *sigh*. In the kenyan top bar hive I pulled the follower board back expecting the worst and out came some bees wondering what the hell I was doing. They had made it wooooooooo! Well I was one for three (I understand this is an Americanism and I realise now I am entirely unsure whether this is the correct usage *shrugs*). I checked the next hive and the same start of fondant untouched and no apparent bees, but when I open them bees aplenty. I could not believe. All three of my hives had made it through winter and had shunned my fondant and made it through winter on honey fumes. Well done girls, well done.
This post is a little light on media so here is a really cool timelapse from national geographic.
https://youtu.be/f6mJ7e5YmnE?list=PLGsVoZfcQfN5TlrzSA_3fVVMVn2qPv1Ve

Monday 29 June 2015

A Bungling beekeeper and some worrying wasps

The weather forecaster had warned us of a wet weekend and was characteristically wrong. This weekend was the hottest so far this year, though its competition has been wanting. My saturday morning dog walk was one of discoveries. I noticed a lot of wasps at the kids playhouse and on investigation found a wasp nest the size of a melon. Having set up a vespa exclusion zone I continued on the walk and decided to visit my apiary and check on the activity at my swarmed warré. The activity looked good and I feel good about the new queen's mating chances. Then I notice scout bee activity at the empty hives.  The scouts were coming and going quite rapidly and I was easily able to track them a big ball of bees in a hawthorn bush.
image
I ran back home and grabbed my kit and my assistant beekeeper Kyle.
The first job was to trim back the surrounding bush which was quite twisty and overgrown. It was at this time that I made a boo boo. I managed to cut the branch that the swarm had clustered on. The bees unceremoniously took to the air. Having realised my incompetence the bees decided they needed to make things a little easier for me and re-clustered on a stack of two bait hives. Initially they looked as though they were heading into the bottom box but 30 min later they had reformed on the top box.
Swarm clustered conveniently on a bait hive.
Swarm clustered conveniently on a bait hive.
This time all I had to do was scoop them up in my hands and put them in the box. The bees didn't seem to mind at all, I'm not sure what it was like for them but for me it was very warm and tingley. I saw the queen and she was surprisingly small and completely black. I think this was a cast swarm from our poppy hive. The Queens from this hive we have decided to name after the flowers in bloom when they emerge. Having given a list of current flora to Kyle he decided the new Queen should be called "Dog rose". I am very proud :)
Queen Dog rose
Queen Dog rose
As for the wasps I am afraid they met their demise in the evening. A bee suit can be used for evil as well as good!
My attempt at a video blog.

My photos and images backup automatically to google+. Occasionally it presents me with an "autoawesome" image. This is what it did with the swarm bits, a bit more dramatic than my attempt:

Something for Steve

I will get to the post heading in due time... maybe...
Pre-amble part one: First an update from last week.
Because I knew how much work I would have on this week (starting with a 13hr day on Sunday) I managed to wangle last Thursday off. As it happened summer decided to put in a showing and the weather was stunning. The children were at school my wife was busy and I had time to just sit next to the entrances of the hives without having to rush my beekeeping because we were going somewhere/doing something/seeing someone etc etc etc. I gave a brief summary here:
My Accidental Warre
[embed]https://youtu.be/BfjeGgIAqc4[/embed]
The Poppy Hive
[embed]https://youtu.be/ESxO2opNToQ[/embed]
As I say in the video I put some comb underneath attached by cable ties. This works extremely well when the bees do what they are supposed to. ie move down, clean the comb, connect it to the bar, queen lays in it... job done! However, on this occasion the bees filled that comb to brimming with nectar. The combination of all that weight and warmth of the bees caused the cable ties to tear through the comb and the comb to drop off of the bar. Bees are supposed to store above their brood, in fact the only time they don't is when they are backfilling their brood nest before ****SPOILER ALERT**** swarming. How strange that they did this... I wonder why. So I propped the comb up against the side of the box and left them to get on with reattaching.
Pre-amble part two: Some of you may remember me housing a hive for a friend Steve. Some of you may even remember these bees appeared to come out of winter strong. What you probably don't know is that the colony ultimately failed in March. On a hive post-mortem this appeared to be an issue with damp.
Wed 10/06/15:
ring ring....ring ring....ring ring( I am afraid this is shoddy attempt to convey my phone ringing even though phones rarely actually "ring" any more).
my wife: ummmm .. honey there are a lot of bees on the roof of the shed and flying round the garden.
me: how many bees, it is a swarm or just scouts around the bait hive.
my wife:  how should I know how many bees they won't stay still for me to count them. There's just a lot of bees and they're acting weird. I have of a friends of the school meeting in the back garden in an hour and people are bringing their children, is it safe.
me: Is what safe?
my wife: The Bees! They're acting weird, is it safe?
Finally getting to the point:
When I returned home there was indeed a meeting in my back garden and as it turns out "a lot of bees" means around 50, and "acting weird" means scouting behaviour. I checked all of my bait hives and every one had strong scouting activity. I therefore checked my warre hive. The hive definitely had less bees and on checking under the top box there were several capped queen cells. The swarm had obviously already left. By the time I got home the scouting had stopped and none of my bait hives had the swarm in them..... may be I had lost them :(
When I returned home this evening there was still no scouting on my shed bait hives but when I checked in my apiary....
[embed]https://youtu.be/T39d86ixkCs[/embed]
They had clearly decided that since the weather was so nice they would camp out under the stars for their first night out and move into their new house the nest day.
Usually warre bait hives are two boxes. I added the top box back to this hive because the old comb in it was getting far too much interest in my shed. The swarm must have been quite large to choose this as a home. Clearly they are bees of fine taste choosing Steve's warre as they did. Well done sneaky bees and may Mata Hari continue to rule you well.

The Ponderings' of Bernhard

Little has been happening in my apiary of late. As I have said before it seems that swarming doesn't turn up until June so I have the next month to look forward to. Meanwhile the bees are building up nicely. As a stop-gap for posting I have decided I need to give you something to be getting on with. Here is an article produced by Bernhard Heuvel. A prolific contributor to the biobees forum and a man who has an intimate knowledge and understanding of his bees. Bernhard is based in Germany and although he has a few hive types he has a large number of Warré hives and these are the hives Bernhard provides the most support for on the forum. I am posting here (with Bernhard's permission) an article he provided to me last year. I have reproduced it below word for word. I have struggled a little taking it from pdf into wordpress so there maybe a few format changes from the original.
To Bernhard, Thank you.
To everyone else, Enjoy!
___________________
Local modifications and adaptions for Warré-beekeeping
Bernhard Heuvel
Initial thoughtsThe Warré bee hive by the French Abbé ELOI FRANÇOIS ÉMILE WARRÉ – called by himself the PEOPLE'S HIVE – got very popular nowadays. That hive is very economical and practical – and also supports the more natural approach of beekeeping. The Warré-bee hive is a box hive – which is why it is able to adapt to many local situations, needs and necessities. The capability to adapt is the reason, why box hives in general are popular all over the World. The 'frameless box hive' – the Warré hive – seems to gain similar popularity today. It is in use throughout North and South America, from Alaska to Brazil. Beekeepers from Europe, Africa, Indonesia, Asia and Australia report keeping bees happily in the Warré hive.
Thus the life's work of ÉMILE WARRÉ – Beekeeping for All – receives appreciation and his vision of a PEOPLE'S HIVE comes true. But even ÉMILE WARRÉ himself points out the dependency of success on local contexts:
»The truth – No type of hive, no method of beekeeping turns stones into honey.Neither do they make the beekeeper any wiser, or increase queen fertility or improve the ambient temperature. As a result the yield of a hive varies from one region to another, from one hive to another and from one year to another, just as does the nectar wealth of the region, queen fertility, temperature and the skill of the beekeeper.« 1
WARRÉ distinguishes here between hive and method. The methods the Warré-hive is used with are various today. And that is a good thing. Because adaptions and modifications of the hive and method is beneficial not just for the beekeeper, but for the bees as well.
»All beekeeping is local.« 2
WARRÉ worked with splits and the heroic method under his local circumstances: Under today’s circumstances the use of the heroic method without doubt is becoming a necessity, to gain a profit/harvest.« 3
Time for modifications!
The classic method of WARRÉ is based of a timely nadiring of the hives with boxes in Spring. The bees are left alone throughout the season until harvest in autumn 4. Swarms are not prevented. This system is not successful under all circumstances as even Warré admits. About 85 % of feral swarms die before or in the first winter, which has been found by Seeley and Morse – even in times preceding the occurrence of varroa. In addition the classic system is based on the vitality of the bees and on a flora rich in nectar throughout the season. The citation above of WARRÉ on the necessity to use the heroic method shows, that he already noticed the changing environmental conditions. In place of a many small nectar flows of wild groves, shrubs and herbs there are mass nectar flows with long times of dearths between. This is a real challenge for both beekeepers and bees.
The heroic method on the other hand really is 'heroic', because it is „gamely“ and risky. It fits the modern concept of removing all brood during the season to treat against varroa mites. The removal of brood and combs cuts back varroa population dynamics. Often combined with a chemical treatment or essential oils.
»The brood retains in the hive many bees that could otherwise go foraging. 5.
This logic is appropriate – but local circumstances do not always allow the use of the heroic method. For example: in our region there mainly is a Spring and a early summer flow. Just before the hives recovered from being broodless – a worker bee needs 40 days to develop from an egg to a forager – the main nectar flow is over. With the flow the chance to collect amounts of honey worth mentioning is gone. As a consequence it is even necessary to feed sugar to get the hives through winter. Just like the removal of brood, a swarm diminishes the foraging of honey.
»If they lack space, they swarm. As a result, the honey harvest is reduced.« 6
You just need to let the hives swarm to verify the significant reduction of honey yields by swarming. Not only that the minimum harvest of about 15 kilogram isn't reached – also you give up harvest altogether and you have to feed.
Some bee-ology
In fixed comb hives I observed differences in the building ability of prime swarms and casts. Prime swarms have old queens and casts young queens. It is widely accepted, that a prime swarms fills a hive with combs fasted – even without any feeding. The bees of a prime swarm simply want to build. The prime swarms clusters in the center of the ceiling and the combs build look very appealing. That's different in a cast swarm, which often starts building combs from the sides of the hive and does look some sort of 'lost' in the hive. The cast does need feeding or it will most probably not survive the winter. I therefore conclude (and may be wrong, of course), that there is a division of tasks: the prime swarm fulfills the tasks to occupy empty cavities and build a proper brood nest, while the casts with the young queens occupy already build nests. Be it the combs of the mother hive or the combs of a vacant hive/cavity. In the case the cast doesn't find such a nest, it is doomed. That may explain the high losses of feral swarms in the study mentioned above. For the development of a system or method in fixed comb hives I therefore deduce that prime swarms should be used to build brood nests, while casts have to be put on already drawn combs. At least you can't do anything wrong by following this principle.
Swarm beekeeping and reproduction
A dividing colony that swarms, moves off with the old queen and a huge part of worker bees, presumably to build a new brood nest in an empty cavity. Some brood, a lot of nectar as reserve and unmated queens are left behind. The young queens need time to get mated and lay eggs. The division of the colony implies a cut in numbers of worker bees – which affects the completion of tasks in the hive – for example cleaning or foraging. The prime swarm on the other hand first needs to draw comb before the queen is able to lay eggs and combs are also needed to store honey into. A worker bee needs 40 days to develop from an egg into a forager. Both – prime swarm and cast do reach a comparable colony size to the initial size way beyond the main nectar flows. When it is too late to store sufficient amounts of honey. This fact constricts swarm beekeeping to locations with a late main nectar flow – as in the heathland of Germany. To make use of the main flow in May and June, most beekeeper try to prevent swarming. Conventional beekeepers generally achieve this by timely supering, 'bleeding' (remove young bees and brood here and there) and breaking queen cells. WARRÉ used the heroic method and splits with whole boxes.
All swarm preventing methods share the common objective to prevent swarming, thus the reduction of the colony's size. When splitting hives or bleeding or other methods, the colony still gets weakened. To weak a hive while you want to prevent the weakening seems pretty questionable. Quite often the bees do swarm anyway, because the artificial weakening was too little. On the other hand the bees do not bring in much honey, in case they got weakened/bled too much. It also seems questionable to break queen cells – just before starting queen breeding afterwards.
Preventing swarms just before artificially splitting the hives. Push brood rearing through manipulations just before culling out all brood for varroa treatment.It seems, that a colony potentially suffers from being torned to and from. The goal of beekeeping is, to provide a colony with numerous workers at the right time: the main nectar flow. To harvest honey, create young fresh colonies for next year and cut back the varroa mite population dynamics a little. Below it is attempted to develop a method using Warré hives to approach the above stated goals – utilizing methods of swarm beekeeping (Demeter beekeeping, skep beekeeping), and box hive beekeeping method of the German most famous beekeeper KARL PFEFFERLE. 7 At the beginning of this text it was called for being open for adaptions – which is why the below approach is just one of many modifications possible. You have to find your way in your place in the end. But maybe this description helps you to find your own system. You need a system as you need a hive – but don't simply copy it. It can not be copied, because – you remember – all beekeeping is local.
Steps to success
Initial situation after wintering.
After the hives have been wintered successfully – so in early spring, the bees didn't eat up much of the stores. In spring the bees use most of the stores, which get turned into brood then. In early spring you find – if wintered on two boxes – usually one box with more or less honey and another box with more or less brood in it.
Initial situation
Initial situation
Stimulation of brood rearing.
As already stressed, a bee needs 40 days to develop into a forager. If a huge amount of workers during the first strong nectar flow (plums, cherries, apple) is to be achieved, the brood rearing has to be stimulated timely. KARL PFEFFERLE recommends a simple method during the first strong pollen flights. 8 He takes out the central two honey combs and lightly scribes them open. Just a bit. The bees start to relocate the honey around the brood nest. PFEFFERLE states that there are hidden protein reserves in the comb. The emptied cells soon get occupied by brood and the bees move up into the honey cap. PFEFFERLE:
»Everywhere, where bees „reach out“ of the broodnest, they find open food and get the impression of floating in enormous amounts of food. That inspires their expansion and development.«
WARRÉ writes about splits:
»If you do this at the beginning of the main nectar flow, and if, in autumn, you left only the necessary stores only in box No. 1 [topmost box], there will certainly be brood with which the bees will raise a new queen.« 9
WARRÉ, too, speaks about two hive boxes with brood at this time of year. But that is not always the case – in opposite the bees more often seem to struggle to keep pace with spring. The stimulation used by PFEFFERLE may help to let the bees move up into the honey cap and brood throughout two boxes. This is necessary to achieve the needed numbers of bees in May. A Warré sized comb has about 4.000 cells – thus per hive box 32,000 potential brood cells (maximum). Two hive boxes are needed in order to build up a colony of 40,000 worker bees and more. Because bees do hatch in a time cascade.
Stimulation by scribing two honey combs in early spring.
Stimulation by scribing two honey combs in early spring.

Indicator: First strong pollen collection. 40 days before expected first main flow.
Stimulation of swarming and building comb.
At the very latest during dandelion blossoming the bees start drawing comb – and need space to do so. In the box hive beekeeping method after PFEFFERLE the upwards movement of the brood nest is continued by supering and giving frames with foundations within already full frames. Because I want to produce swarms I let the bees hit the ceiling and backfill with nectar. To give them at least some space to build, I nadir one box in the first step.
Nadiring an empty box.
Nadiring an empty box.
Indicator: Dandelion is blossoming.
This hive box later contains some combs which can be used as seed combs for swarms. The nadiring can be left out as suggested by PFEFFERLE and supered instead, which will produce even larger colonies.
 First strong flow.
The first super is put on in the first strong flow, which is usually cherry trees, so this box gets drawn out and eventually filled with honey. At this time of year there are about 1,000 bees hatching per day – those bees need something to do. Building combs and later foraging are very good tasks.
Supering a honey box.
Supering a honey box.
Indicator: Cherries are blossoming.
Swarming and making use of swarms.
Starting with the first strong flows and the daily increase of worker numbers the first
queen cells get drawn and cared for. It doesn't take long until first drones can be seen inside and outside the hive. Swarming can't be too far away then. Once temperatures do not drop below 10°C during the night, swarms can be expected.
The prime swarm has to be catched. This you can do in various ways. You either use bait hives, swarm traps mounted at the hive entrances or you simply pluck the swarm of a tree. (If you have the time to do so...).
Different on what WARRÉ recommends, the prime swarm should not (!) be brought away from the apiary. The prime swarm – which is most eagerly to draw comb – receives two empty hive boxes, and another two honey boxes on top. The one honeybox is the honeybox of the hive that just swarmed. It contains fresh honey – the bees are willing to fill that other box, too. The prime swarm is put into the place of the hive that swarmed. This way the foragers are combined with the prime swarm which makes a strong colony. Strong, broodless and willing to build and collect. Similar to the heroic method – just less heroic. The hive with the prime swarm is eager to forage. This way the main nectar flow can be fully used by the bees.
Prime swarm at the old location. Brood boxes are split and used as nucs.
Prime swarm at the old location. Brood boxes are split and used as nucs.
The brood boxes of the swarmed hive are splitted and the queen cells divided into the two boxes. The boxes are put into another place. If there is brood only in one box, the one box will be put into another place. Foragers of the split will return to the prime swarm, resulting in small colonies that won't swarm and swarm. The young queens get mated and until the end of summer the colonies grow into full sized young colonies, ready for next season.
A variation is the twin-hive system. Simply put an empty box above a queen excluder onto the two splits, thus combining the hives through the top. The hives communicate through that topbox and even out themselves, sharing the workforce. That helps both colonies.
Twin hive system with the two splits.
Twin hive system with the two splits.
Indicator: Apple and horse chestnut blossoming.
This way the young colonies/splits may collect their own honey for wintering. Being broodless for some time there is a chance to treat against varroa mites.
Use of nectar flows and harvests.
Honey is harvested once cells of the honey combs in the topboxes are capped. Bee escapes are used to get the bees out. In localities with early nectar flows only, the use of a queen excluder between honey boxes and brood boxes should be considered, because it is the only chance to make a harvest. And to not need to feed to winter the hives.
Supering, Nadiring, Harvesting
Supering, Nadiring, Harvesting
Indicator: Raspberries, blackberries, locust tree, lime tree
Once the young queens lay eggs and first brood hatches, the splits should be nadired. Boxes with fully drawn comb preferred, but empty boxes do as well.
 Getting ready for winter.
If the nadired boxes of the splits do not contain comb, the splits get combined and feeded to get ready for winter. Honey boxes get harvested and the colonies feeded until the topmost box of every hive is full of honey. The hive with the old queen gets reduced or the bees combined with the splits.
Ready for winter
Ready for winter
Final words
I hope that the above thoughts illustrate my trials to adapt to our locality, a region with mainly spring nectar flows and a long summer dearth. I think it is necessary to differentiate between the hive and method/system, and to develop your own system. That is adapted to your locality. Being advantageous not only for you, but for the bees, too. Wintering hives in one box, feeding sugar every year, excessive swarming of hives that just build one or two boxes, no harvests – that is not necessary.
There are times when well-trodden trails have to be left and new ways to be explored. The Warré hive itself is enormously flexible and adaptable. It provides an excellent potential to keep bees the simple and productive way – by all of us. Just what Warré intended. I finish this text with his wish:
»Mella fluunt tibi.«
sketch 8
1 Abbé Emile Warré: Beekeeping for All. Page 3. david (at) dheaf.plus.com
2 Michael Bush: The Practical Beekeeper Volume II. ISBN: 978-1-61476-062-7, Pages 269-270
3 Abbé Emile Warré: Beekeeping for All. This cite is missing in the English translation.
4 Page 120
5 Page 94
6 Page 88
7 Karl Pfefferle: Imkern mit dem Magazin und mit der Varroatose. (book)
8 Karl Pfefferle: Imkern mit dem Magazin und mit der Varroatose. Page 35 ff. (book.)
9 Page 146
------------
This article was published with the permission of the author Bernhard Heuvel who retains full rights and permissions to this work.